It's in "beta" right now (I wouldn't call it a beta, more like an alpha or pre-alpha, but it's their second public test version.), and is fairly buggy, but. You have to sign up at http://ragnarok.co.kr/en/r_main.htm to play, but the site is bloody slow.
Beyond that, the patcher for the game is also just as slow, but the rest of the game is a good speed. There's a bug when you're zoning, but they're apparantly taking care of it.
http://www.ro-world.com/downloads.php has all the files you'll need, once you've signed up. Get the patch there, it'll save you 20 hours or so trying to get it from the patcher.
A few notes:
If you want me to send you the install file, let me know on AIM. I have a decent (~100KB/s) upload speed.
Some sceenshots:
My magician preparing a spell.
My novice (who's now changed class to a thief) hovering over a defeated Fabre. No, they're not strong.
I'll post more pics when I get the chance to get in game and take them. reg